Subaru Used Parts

You can find the cheap Subaru parts online here at BackToRoad Auto Parts. We sell high quality used Subaru parts at cheap prices. We also take the time to check the old Subaru car parts and test their condition before adding them to our inventory. We make sure to source Subaru used parts from low-mileage vehicles so that the condition of the auto part is good and not worn down. 

The most expensive car parts to replace are usually transmissions, suspensions, valves, and brake lines. However, if you need to replace any of these components in your Subaru, you can buy Subaru OEM used parts to get your car back in shape without costing you a fortune.

At BackToRoad Auto Parts, we have a standard 30-day warranty on all our products starting from the day the product was purchased. If you have any issues with the Subaru used part that you ordered from us, you can contact us immediately and we will get you either a replacement or a refund.   

The components that are manufactured directly by the carmaker are known as Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) parts. This means that OEM parts are usually more expensive than aftermarket parts but their quality is also better than aftermarket parts. Due to this, it is recommended to buy OEM used parts when repairing your vehicle.

Check the specifications of your vehicle, production date, and the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) for your vehicle to make sure that the Subaru used part you buy is compatible with your vehicle. You can use this information to search our database to find the Subaru part replacement you need. If you have any doubts, you can also contact our Auto Parts Specialists who will be happy to help you find the Subaru used part that you need for your vehicle. 

The 2.5-liter EJ25 is the engine most associated with head gasket failure, and it showed up across a wide range of Subarus: 1999 to 2010 Foresters, 2000 to 2009 Outbacks and Legacys, and 1999 to 2011 Imprezas are the ranges most commonly flagged. Turbocharged EJ25 and EJ20 engines in the WRX and STI used a more durable multi-layer steel gasket and failed less often. Subaru’s shift to the FA and FB engine families starting around 2011 to 2012 largely resolved the problem, so later Foresters, Outbacks, and Imprezas carry much less risk. If you’re shopping for a used engine, or a used car, in one of the affected ranges, ask specifically about head gasket history rather than assuming a running engine means a healthy one.

Give us your VIN rather than just your model and year. Subaru ran multiple engine and transmission variants within the same model, sometimes within the same model year, depending on trim and market, so “2012 Outback” alone doesn’t tell us whether you had an EJ25 or an FB25, or a CVT versus a manual. Our parts locator tool cross-references your VIN against our nationwide network of recyclers and salvage yards to confirm the exact engine code, transmission code, and drivetrain configuration before we quote a part. If you’re not sure where to find your VIN or which character maps to what, our Auto Parts Specialists can walk you through it over the phone.

It depends on how far the damage has gone, but a used swap usually wins on both cost and downtime. A CVT rebuild means disassembling the unit, replacing worn components like the chain, pulleys, or valve body, then reassembling and recalibrating it, labor-heavy work that can run close to what a tested used Lineartronic unit costs outright. A used transmission, once matched to your VIN and generation (TR580 or TR690), typically installs as a straight swap with less labor and less risk of a repeat failure from a worn part the rebuild didn’t touch. Rebuilding can still make sense if the damage is isolated and caught early, but once a shop is quoting a full rebuild, it’s worth getting a used-unit price to compare before deciding either way.

Ask the seller directly, and don’t accept “it runs fine” as an answer on its own. A few real things to check: fresh sealant or newer bolts visible where the head meets the block, no coolant or oil residue pooled near the base of the engine (where EJ25s typically leak first), and coolant that looks clean rather than recently topped off with a stop-leak additive, which masks a slow leak instead of fixing it. Mileage matters too. If an EJ25 has well over 100,000 miles with no documented gasket replacement anywhere in its history, treat that as a real risk rather than assume it was never an issue. Every used engine we list at BackToRoad gets checked for this exact failure pattern before it enters our inventory, and our specialists can tell you directly whether a specific engine has had gasket work done.